24.5.15

Clothes that move!

In 1820 the inventor Thomas Hancock patented elastic fastenings for gloves, shoes, suspenders and stockings.  He founded the British rubber industry and invented a little machine called the masticator which made it all possible.

I avoid making things that require buttonholes, partly it's because my old clunker does a lousy job of it but mostly I'm just really fussy so it takes me ages to get them right...ever unpicked a buttonhole, not easy!  Thank goodness for Mr Hancock.

I love love love working with elastic, it adds shape instantly, creates fullness and texture whilst adding the additional element of comfort...clothes that move with you like the skirt and top shown below.  


The newly released PRETTY BLOUSE is now available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 6-14.  It's shown here with the equally versatile FLASH N' DASH skirt.  



20.5.15

HOW TO adjust the length of a pattern

The recently released PRETTY BLOUSE features elasticized cuffs and waist.  When I'm drafting my patterns I work to a set body size but what to do if you happen to be a bit taller or shorter than the average gal?

I've added some lengthen/shorten marks to the pattern but to make things a little easier here's a step by step to help you through the process.

1. First work out what size you are.  My standard body measurements are listed right here along with instructions on how to measure yourself.  To check your length, measure down from the side of your neck at the shoulder to your natural waist.  If you find a difference of more than 1cm then I would recommend adjusting the pattern.  


SIDE NECK TO WAIST (body size) 
Size 6 - 41.8cm 
Size 8 - 42.4cm
Size 10 - 43cm
Size 12 - 43.6cm
Size 14 - 44.2cm

   2. Now you know what size you are cut out your pattern and tape all the pieces for the front and back together following the guides on the pattern.  In this case I'm going to cut out a size 10.



3. I've placed the center front fold line of my pattern against the fold in the fabric and I want to add an additional 2cm.  Cut the pattern along the lengthen/shorten line and move the two pieces evenly apart by this amount.  


4. The side seam no longer matches perfectly so with pins or chalk mark out a new side seam.  In this case I've also added a little extra to the length just in case the proportion looks wrong.  I can always cut it off later.  Be sure to make exactly the same adjustments to the back.


5. To shorten evenly overlap the two front pattern pieces making sure that the fold of the fabric and the center fold of your pattern are exactly in line.  Mark out a new side seam shape with pins or chalk and again make sure to adjust the back by the same amount.


The pattern for the PRETTY BLOUSE is available from my Etsy shop in Australian size 6 to 14.  For international customers a size conversion chart can be found here.

The fabric shown in this tutorial is a beautiful Swiss cotton which I found at Tessuti in Melbourne.

14.5.15

new pattern PRETTY BLOUSE

Just added to my Etsy shop, the PRETTY BLOUSE is a simple pull-on style (no buttons!) that's quick to make and easy to wear.  The pattern includes instructions for an optional frill.



The pattern is available in Australian sizes 6-14, for international customers a size conversion chart can be found right here.  The PRETTY BLOUSE is shown here with the FLAPPER SHORT.

16.4.15

Big prints or little prints?

I've always tended to use and recommend smaller prints for my lingerie patterns, mainly because they look really cute and it's just easier.


Using large scale prints will also work and it's definitely worth the effort, it just requires a little more fabric and some careful planning.  Take some time to think about how you'd like the pattern to appear on your finished garments. For my bra I wanted the floral to grow in from the sides whereas on the panty I placed it right in the middle so the set would be balanced.


PEEK-A-BOO PANTIES and matching LITTLE GIRLS TRIANGLE BRA were made from a silk cotton voile found at Tessuti in Melbourne.  The contrast vintage lace came from Old World Haberdashery at the Chapel Street Bazaar 217 Chapel Street, Prahran (turn right at the entrance, you can't miss it) If you live in Melbourne or are visiting I highly recommended stopping by!  The elastic, including bra straps, rings and back closure were all sourced from Bra Makers, excellent range, great advice and service.


Both patterns are now available from my Etsy shop.  PEEK-A-BOO PANTIES in sizes 8-14 and LITTLE GIRLS TRIANGLE BRA 6-12A & 8-14B.
For international customers a size conversion chart can be found on right here



10.4.15

Peek-A-Boo Panties

The pattern for the PEEK-A-BOO PANTIES is now available from my Etsy shop in sizes 8-14.  For international customers a size conversion chart can be found right here.  For this sample I used a soft cotton voile and lace found buried in my stash.  I have absolutely no idea where they came from but I love the effect.


Green is most definitely good!