HOW TO attach fold-over lingerie elastic

Over the past few months I've been teaching myself to make bras.  I started by stalking the lingerie section of my local department store to see how they were constructed and then went hunting for bra making components.  Every time I found an interesting elastic I'd buy a bit and start experimenting.  

I'm designing two soft cup patterns specifically for smaller bust/ body sizes...mainly because I can never find anything I like and yes they will be made using light weight woven fabrics...perfect for Liberty prints!
The first is the LITTLE 'GIRLS' BRALETTE which requires the maker to attach a fold-over elastic around the under-bust edge.  It can be a little challenging and takes some practice so here's a step by step to take you through the process.

1. In the example below I'm using a 19mm (3/4") fold-over elastic with a picot edge that I found on-line at BRA-MAKERS (code EF-9); I highly recommend this on-line store!. Fold-over elastic has a fold knitted into it .

2. To work out how much elastic you'll need, measure along the under-bust edge and using the equation below calculate the length (This equation may differ depending on the end use, I highly recommend buying extra so you can experiment).

Length of fabric edge x .8 = elastic length

3. Open the elastic to expose the inside and place the bottom edge of the bra fabric close to the inner fold line right side up.  Using a wide stitch, attach the elastic and fabric together stretching the elastic to fit as you go.

The elastic should be stretched to fit; just a little at the back and sides and slightly more along the front directly under the bust.  This line of stay stitching will be removed later. 

4. Fold your elastic over the fabric so that the fabric edge is completely enclosed inside.  Using a *twin needle and with right side up, stitch along the entire upper edge of the elastic stretching the elastic to fit as go.

5. Finally, carefully remove the line of stay stitching visible on the wrong side and you're ready to attach your hook and eye closure. 

*TWIN NEEDLE - I prefer to use a twin needle for the under bust stitching as it looks more professional.  Rather than creating another HOW TO I found a really helpful video tutorial on-line which I highly recommend watching.

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