Quilting

My HOOD HAT, PARTY DRESS and BIG BUNNY sewing patterns all include quilted panels of fabric.  It looks like a complicated process but in reality, once you know how, it's super easy.

    

 The wadding (also known as batting) is usually quite wide so I'm using up all my leftovers to make a round cushion.  The patterned fabric is from a collection by NINA CAMPBELL (rabbit hole warning!!!) and for the underside I cut up an old pillow case.  

I recommend making your fabric sandwich just big enough to fit the pattern as it can become a little bulky and difficult to handle if the piece is too large.  I've added a detailed HOW TO right here. I used top stitching thread and if you've never sewn with it before there's also a HOW TO for that here.

HOW TO make a shopping bag

Goodbye plastic bags!

Victoria will soon ban single use plastic bags so for your weekly shopping you could make a WEEKEND TOTE BAG...or maybe do this.

1. Take a plastic bag in the size you want, cut across the bottom and the top of both handles.

2. Cut down both sides and flatten out your plastic and then fold in half.

I've transferred the shape directly onto my fabric because I'm lazy but feel free to make a paper pattern.  Add 1cm seam allowance around the handles.  The bag is cut all in one piece with 1cm seam allowance on the outside side seam.

Start with the first 1/2 of one side, mark the pattern to the center fold.  Cut to the fold line of the plastic, stop and then flip the piece over and cut to the other side of the handle less the seam allowance on the side.

Flip the whole thing over and cut the entire shape from the centre fold making sure to include the 1cm seam allowance at the other end.  Use this fabric piece as a pattern to cut the lining.

3. With right sides together stitch the outer fabric together down the side to form a sausage.  Repeat for the lining.

4. With the right side of the outer fabric facing the right side of the lining and with the side seams and handle shapes matching stitch around the handles only.  The top and bottom should be left open.  Clip seams around curves and then turn right side out.  Press.

5. Make the folds in the sides to replicate the handles on the original plastic bag.  Finish across the bottom and the tops of the handles through all layers with bias binding tucking in the ends and hand stitching in place.  Sorry people but I love hand sewing.  All done.

Plastic bags to go the way of the Dodo, now there's an extinction story we can all cheer on to fruition.

My plastic bag replacement combines a green gingham bias binding found at Luccello with a heavy weight printed canvas and a soft silk cotton voile which both came from Tessuti...all left overs from other projects so even better.  I chose printed fabrics that come from opposite sides of the colour wheel.  I love combining clashing colours and when done well they can add a wonderful pop to your piece. 

new pattern PARTY DRESS

 

Draped, quilted and  beaded, roomy through the body with a super short hem.  Wear tested and dance floor ready the PARTY DRESS sewing pattern is finally complete.  

The pattern is available in Australia sizes 8-14 from my Esty shop.  For international customers a size conversion chart can be found right here.

The Zebra print silk was found at Tessuti in Melbourne and the contrast yoke was cut from some left overs.  I purchased my beads from Maria's Beads and Trims in the Nicholas building.  If you've never quilted fabric or stitched with heavy top stitching thread you'll find a HOW TO here and here.

new pattern CLASSIC COWL

The CLASSIC COWL sewing pattern is now available from my Etsy Shop is Australian sizes 10-16, for international customers a size conversion chart can be found right here.

 The pattern is suitable for light to medium weight jersey fabrics and I recommend cotton, cotton/elastane or viscose/elastane blends like the example shown here.  The hem, cuffs and neckline were all finished with twin needle stitching, detailed instructions showing you HOW TO hem jersey using a twin needle can be found right here.
 

 
Leaving the hem edges raw so they roll works best in 100% cotton and an example can be seen here.  The raw denim jeans, with all the pocket stitching removed, are by Nudie and the reading glasses are retro Gucci.

HOW TO remove that musty smell from old clothes

Jacket Renovation pt 2

Removing that musty smell turned out to be a two part solution.  From my local fishy pet store I purchased a bag of Activated Charcoal, $14.95 for 1KG.  The charcoal is treated with steam at high temperatures allowing it's highly porous surface to absorb gas particles (the smell) at a rate disproportionate to it's size.  Thank you science!

I placed my stinky jacket into an airtight tub with a cup of charcoal, sealed it up and stored it away for two weeks.

  

The smell was greatly reduced but the faux astrakhan facing remained largely recalcitrant.  Further research suggested a quick spray of vodka would do the trick so I laid it out on the kitchen table and bobs your uncle, 10 minutes later it was as good as new.

My love of Liberty is no secret, the new lining is Edenham in black, perfect for the overall look and an instant smell reducing bonus...favourite jacket restored to regular wardrobe rotation.

Jacket renovation pt 1

I made this jacket maybe 20 years ago.  I wore it a lot but for the past 10 years it's been stored at the bottom of a trunk in the living room.  

The body was cut from a pig skin suede with a soft lamb for the trim, the facings are in an astrakhan type fabric and it's lined in a printed satin. 

It's not in great condition.  The jacket is moldy across the lower back and down one of the sleeves and there are deep fold marks in the suede.  The lining is yellowing in parts and some of the seams are splitting over the shoulder.   I can deal with all of that but the smell is overpowering, that horrible musty op shop smell that makes your eyes water. 

 

Dealing with the smell is the first priority so the lining is coming out and will be used as a pattern to cut the new one.  The gigantic shoulder pads went straight in the bin. 

Some serious smell reduction research is now underway...

new pattern CAMISOLE

The CAMISOLE sewing pattern is now available from my Etsy shop in Australia sizes 8-14.  It's suitable for cup sizes A - C and international customers can find a size conversion chart right here.

You'll need to know how to attach knicker elastic and make basic bra straps but luckily step by step instructions for both can be found under the HOW TO section above.  A brilliant source for knicker and bra strap elastic is bra-makers supply so many colours and they just updated their website.  The printed cotton was found at Tessuti in Melbourne and for a total contrast I also quilted it and used it to line a HOOD HAT...never throw anything away!

HOW TO add weights to a cowl neckline

Coming along in the next month or so a new pattern I'm working on called the PARTY DRESS which is designed with cowls at both the back and front.  I sometimes worry that this HOW TO information is all a bit basic but just in case you're wondering here's how you add weights to a cowl neckline.

 

1. Off to the hardware shop you go.  Locate the plumbing section and purchase some tap washers.  For this example I'm using washers with a diameter of 23mm 

 

2. Cut two pieces of fabric each 12cm long x 4.5cm wide

3. Fold in half right sides together and using your overlocker stitch the long edges together forming an open ended envelope.

4. Turn right side out, press and then insert a washer into each.

5. Push in the ends by a couple of cm's, slip stitch the opening closed and then topstitch in place on the facing edge of the cowl at the exact centre point. 

All done.  On the inside it will look something like this and when on the body will hold your cowl perfectly in place.

new pattern SHORTY

I originally set out to design a cape, an extra winter layer that I could pull-on without inflaming an injured shoulder.  The pattern was created by draping directly onto the stand and the end result lands somewhere between cape and shrug, the best of both worlds.  

It's made here in an open weave wool and will work best in medium weight winter coat fabrics with a soft drape.  You could use a heavier felted or boiled wool but I'd probably recommend going up a size.  The gently sloping shoulder line and relaxed open sleeves combined together with elasticized bands create shape without restricting movement which means it's easy to put on and take off, perfect.

The SHORTY is available from my Etsy store in Australian sizes 8-14, a size conversion chart can be found right here.   It's shown together with THE LONG SKINNY made in a wool blend printed jersey found at Tessuti in Melbourne.