HOW TO hem jersey using a twin needle

When sewing jersey tops my personal preference is to leave the hems raw and let them roll however for a more polished look you can also use a twin needle.  It's actually really easy, here's how you do it...

1. First buy yourself a twin needle, I'm using a Schmetz with the needles set 4mm apart.  If you're sewing jersey make sure the pack says stretch.

2. Twin needle attachments can be expensive so threading the machine correctly is really important.  Thread your bobbin as normal.  For the top however you need two spools of thread.  Place the left spool so the thread comes off in an anti-clockwise direction and the right spool so it comes off in a clockwise direction.

3. Thread the left spool first keeping the thread to the left where you have the option and finally threading it through the left needle.  Thread the right spool keeping the thread to the right where you have the option and finally threading it through the right needle.

Notice below that the right thread is not caught through the thread guard directly above the needles.  Of course every machine will look slightly different but leave the right thread free at this point only.

  

With caution test the threading by turning the machine by hand and then slowly through some fabric.  Consult your manual for any additional instructions.

4. Turn up your hem, in my case it's 2.5cm and press.

5. It's a good idea to test your stitch on some scrap fabric first.  For example, I find with my machine (my loyal 25 year old clunker) that I need to relax the foot pressure so as to not stretch the fabric as I stitch.  Once you're happy, with the right side up, stitch evenly around your hem.

Give it a press and you're all done.

Teeny-Weeny String Bikini

The pattern for the TEENY-WEENY STRING BIKINI is suitable for A to C cup busts and apart from the top also includes both a narrow and wide side pant.  Happily both pants can be adjusted via the side ties making them suitable for a variety of body types and sizes.

The swimsuit fabric used for the bikini shown was found at Tessuti in Melbourne and the pattern is now available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 6-14

As well as the step by step instructions included with your pattern there are two HOW TO tutorials to help you along...HOW TO make narrow swimwear straps and HOW TO attach swimwear elastic.

Winter Layering

THE LONG SKINNY has many virtues not least of which is it's chameleon like adaptability.  For this version I used a lightweight jersey in a soft floral print.  To give my top a casual weekend look the cuffs, hem and neck binding were all left raw and encouraged to roll. 

Add denim jeans, contrast DRESS-ME-UP COLLAR plus a chunky cardigan and Voilà...out you go!

The pattern for the highly addictive LONG SKINNY (so far I've made 6) is scheduled for release in mid July; the DRESS-ME-UP COLLAR pattern is available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 8-16; both of the fabrics used were found at Tessuti in Melbourne.  My cardigan is called WANDERER, it was designed by Martin Storey for Rowan and can be found in book 48.  I did make a couple of changes; I made my cardigan slightly longer, changed the sleeves to be moss stitch and also left the underarm seams open at the cuff for 7cm.

HOW TO attach a basic jersey neck binding

The neckline of a new t-shirt shape I'm working on called THE LONG SKINNY can be finished in either of two ways.  Personally I prefer the version where the cuffs and hem are left raw and the neckline is finished with a rolled jersey binding, however if you're after a more polished finish, the cuffs and hem can be twin needled and the neckline finished with a basic jersey binding.  

Binding a neckline with a double layer of jersey is a fairly basic technique and a good one to master. Here's how you do it...

1. Firstly you need to join the back and front at the shoulder seams, press the seams toward the front.

  

2. Measure around the neck opening (neck circumference), it's easier to handle if you fold the garment in half.  Multiple this measurement by .85, add seam allowance and then cut a strip of fabric in this length x 4.5cm in width. 

  

3. With right sides together, overlock the ends of the neckband together to form a loop.

4. Fold the band in half, wrong sides together and press.

5. Divide the neckline and the neckband into four equal parts marking each point with a pin or chalk mark.  Pin the neckband to the neckline with right sides together so the four points correspond.

6. Working from the right side of you t-shirt overlock the neckband to the neckline stretching the band evenly to fit; the neckline should not be stretched.  This should be done slowly and carefully, don't rush!

7. Press the seam allowance toward the body of the garment and you're all done.

The pattern for THE LONG SKINNY will be released shortly.

Hot weather dressing

The pattern for the BATHING SUIT TOP is tantalizingly close to completion and now that I'm finally in my new home I can dust off some of the projects I'd been working on prior.  A spate of 40 degree plus weather inspired a dress version.  The only alteration to the pattern was to add a 29cm wide hem frill which beautifully emphasizes the trapeze shape and uneven hemline.

 

It's also mighty good for spinning!  The pattern for the BATHING SUIT TOP will be available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 8 to 14 in just a couple of weeks.

The dress was made from a Japanese silk blend check.  I used a contrast spot for the reverse side of the ties and to form the casing around the inside of the neckline; both fabrics were found at Tessuti in Melbourne.