Teeny-Weeny String Bikini

The pattern for the TEENY-WEENY STRING BIKINI is suitable for A to C cup busts and apart from the top also includes both a narrow and wide side pant.  Happily both pants can be adjusted via the side ties making them suitable for a variety of body types and sizes.

The swimsuit fabric used for the bikini shown was found at Tessuti in Melbourne and the pattern is now available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 6-14

As well as the step by step instructions included with your pattern there are two HOW TO tutorials to help you along...HOW TO make narrow swimwear straps and HOW TO attach swimwear elastic.

Winter Layering

THE LONG SKINNY has many virtues not least of which is it's chameleon like adaptability.  For this version I used a lightweight jersey in a soft floral print.  To give my top a casual weekend look the cuffs, hem and neck binding were all left raw and encouraged to roll. 

Add denim jeans, contrast DRESS-ME-UP COLLAR plus a chunky cardigan and Voilà...out you go!

The pattern for the highly addictive LONG SKINNY (so far I've made 6) is scheduled for release in mid July; the DRESS-ME-UP COLLAR pattern is available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 8-16; both of the fabrics used were found at Tessuti in Melbourne.  My cardigan is called WANDERER, it was designed by Martin Storey for Rowan and can be found in book 48.  I did make a couple of changes; I made my cardigan slightly longer, changed the sleeves to be moss stitch and also left the underarm seams open at the cuff for 7cm.

HOW TO attach a basic jersey neck binding

The neckline of a new t-shirt shape I'm working on called THE LONG SKINNY can be finished in either of two ways.  Personally I prefer the version where the cuffs and hem are left raw and the neckline is finished with a rolled jersey binding, however if you're after a more polished finish, the cuffs and hem can be twin needled and the neckline finished with a basic jersey binding.  

Binding a neckline with a double layer of jersey is a fairly basic technique and a good one to master. Here's how you do it...

1. Firstly you need to join the back and front at the shoulder seams, press the seams toward the front.

  

2. Measure around the neck opening (neck circumference), it's easier to handle if you fold the garment in half.  Multiple this measurement by .85, add seam allowance and then cut a strip of fabric in this length x 4.5cm in width. 

  

3. With right sides together, overlock the ends of the neckband together to form a loop.

4. Fold the band in half, wrong sides together and press.

5. Divide the neckline and the neckband into four equal parts marking each point with a pin or chalk mark.  Pin the neckband to the neckline with right sides together so the four points correspond.

6. Working from the right side of you t-shirt overlock the neckband to the neckline stretching the band evenly to fit; the neckline should not be stretched.  This should be done slowly and carefully, don't rush!

7. Press the seam allowance toward the body of the garment and you're all done.

The pattern for THE LONG SKINNY will be released shortly.

Hot weather dressing

The pattern for the BATHING SUIT TOP is tantalizingly close to completion and now that I'm finally in my new home I can dust off some of the projects I'd been working on prior.  A spate of 40 degree plus weather inspired a dress version.  The only alteration to the pattern was to add a 29cm wide hem frill which beautifully emphasizes the trapeze shape and uneven hemline.

 

It's also mighty good for spinning!  The pattern for the BATHING SUIT TOP will be available from my Etsy shop in Australian sizes 8 to 14 in just a couple of weeks.

The dress was made from a Japanese silk blend check.  I used a contrast spot for the reverse side of the ties and to form the casing around the inside of the neckline; both fabrics were found at Tessuti in Melbourne.

Tips for choosing the right size bra

During a presentation a few years back I was asked how best to advise male customers in selecting the right size bra for their girlfriend/wife/female friend.  I was working as a Lingerie buyer for a mail order company and the phone operators were constantly being asked for help.  Apart from a spot of covert lingerie draw reconnaissance I also suggested the highly "technical" and incredible "accurate" FRUIT THEORY...

Lemon 
A cup

Apple 
B Cup

Orange 
C Cup

Grapefruit 
D Cup

Bra sizes can be broken down into two parts; firstly your body size and then the size/shape of the breast, so for example 12AA, 12A, 12B, 12C, 12D, 12DD etc.

As a general rule start by going up one body size; I'm normally a 10 so in a bra I go straight for the 12's.  Applying fruit theory I'm looking for something that would fit a...lemon; 12A perfect.

If you find the body size is a bit big but the cup is perfect, drop down a body size but up one in the cup, so for me that would be a 10B.

If you find the body size is a bit small but the cup is perfect, then go up one body size but down a cup size, so for me that would be a 14AA. 

Some important things to keep in mind...the wires should frame the breast tissue not sit on top of it, the straps should not dig in at the shoulder, the back should not be riding up and importantly when you're wearing the right size bra there will be no breast tissue bulging out either at the front or the underarm.
 
Hopefully these tips will help when selecting which sizes to take with you to the change room or if you're shopping on line at least which ones to drop into your cart.  If it all possible ask to be professionally fitted in store especially if you have a larger bust.  Don't rush this important purchase, wearing the wrong size and/or the wrong type of bra for you figure can cause all sorts of issues with posture leading to problems with the back, neck and shoulders. 

In designing sewing patterns for bras I decided to develop soft cup styles specifically for smaller body/bust sizes, mainly because I can never find anything I like.  The LITTLE 'GIRLS' TRIANGLE BRA in sizes 6-12A & 8-14B will soon be joined by the LITTLE 'GIRLS' BRALETTE and both are designed to be made using woven fabrics so perfect for Liberty prints like the one above.

My new studio space is less than two weeks away, in the meantime you can follow my gypsy studio adventures via instagram