Lingerie Trims

Like most creative people I collect things for future use.  In the bottom draw of my filing cabinet, inside two old boxes, is my collection of lace trims.  During a recent rummage I uncovered this beautiful piece of lace, just enough for trimming a bralette sample.

 Also included a long forgotten bag of tiny ribbon flowers, also perfect for lingerie.

If you have any bra making aspirations I highly recommend squirreling away any little trims you come across.  The patterns for the LITTLE 'GIRLS' BRALETTE and LITTLE 'GIRLS' TRIANGLE BRA are in progress; my lingerie draw never looked so cute! 

HOW TO attach fold-over lingerie elastic

Over the past few months I've been teaching myself to make bras.  I started by stalking the lingerie section of my local department store to see how they were constructed and then went hunting for bra making components.  Every time I found an interesting elastic I'd buy a bit and start experimenting.  

I'm designing two soft cup patterns specifically for smaller bust/ body sizes...mainly because I can never find anything I like and yes they will be made using light weight woven fabrics...perfect for Liberty prints!
 
The first is the LITTLE 'GIRLS' BRALETTE which requires the maker to attach a fold-over elastic around the under-bust edge.  It can be a little challenging and takes some practice so here's a step by step to take you through the process.

1. In the example below I'm using a 19mm (3/4") fold-over elastic with a picot edge that I found on-line at BRA-MAKERS (code EF-9); I highly recommend this on-line store!. Fold-over elastic has a fold knitted into it .

2. To work out how much elastic you'll need, measure along the under-bust edge and using the equation below calculate the length (This equation may differ depending on the end use, I highly recommend buying extra so you can experiment).

Length of fabric edge x .8 = elastic length

  

3. Open the elastic to expose the inside and place the bottom edge of the bra fabric close to the inner fold line right side up.  Using a wide stitch, attach the elastic and fabric together stretching the elastic to fit as you go.
 

The elastic should be stretched to fit; just a little at the back and sides and slightly more along the front directly under the bust.  This line of stay stitching will be removed later. 

4. Fold your elastic over the fabric so that the fabric edge is completely enclosed inside.  Using a *twin needle and with right side up, stitch along the entire upper edge of the elastic stretching the elastic to fit as go.

5. Finally, carefully remove the line of stay stitching visible on the wrong side and you're ready to attach your hook and eye closure. 

*TWIN NEEDLE - I prefer to use a twin needle for the under bust stitching as it looks more professional.  Rather than creating another HOW TO I found a really helpful video tutorial on-line which I highly recommend watching.

The Makers' Journal - Episode 1

Patterns in order of appearance....

FREDDIE VEST

RA RA SKIRT

 THE TUNIC

JUMP PANT (coming soon)

Photography - Pamela Cupit

Editing - Sam Mapplebeck

Original Music - Hugh Davis

Model - Charlie Delroy

HOW TO attach swimwear elastic

  Sewing swimwear is so easy!

Apart from knowing HOW TO make straps you'll also need know HOW TO attach swimwear elastic...

1. Swimwear elastic is generally available in clear or solid colours and feels rubbery and smooth.  I recommend the solid coloured elastic, much easier to handle.

Of course since you're sewing a jersey fabric make sure to use the correct needles; select the pack marked jersey.

2. For my example I'm making a bikini pant for which the side seams are left open.  I've already overlocked my outer fabric and my inner linings together and joined the front and back at the crotch seam.

3. Measure around the opening to which the elastic is being attached and using the equation below cut your elastic to the correct length.

Total length of opening x .66 = elastic length

4. Using a zig-zag stitch, attach the elastic to the wrong side along the edge stretching the elastic evenly to fit, the fabric underneath should not be stretched.

5. Fold the edge toward the wrong side so the elastic is hidden underneath.  With the right side facing up zig-zag stitch along the edge stretching the fabric out flat as you go...all done!

HOW TO make narrow swimwear straps

Busy making lots of new patterns including one for the TEENY-WEENY STRING BIKINI.

Having never sewn swimwear fabric before I've been experimenting with different methods for making the narrow straps.  After a bit of trial and error here's my recommendation; super easy...

1. For my straps I'm using 6mm (1/4") wide swimwear elastic.  

  

I cut my fabric into 4cm wide strips; wider than I need but this makes it easier to handle.

2. Overlock or zig-zag your elastic onto the wrong side of the strap fabric.  You don't need to stretch either the elastic or the fabric.

  

3. Roll the fabric around the elastic and using your sewing machine zig-zag stitch down the middle.  Once again don't stretch the fabric, it's not necessary.

I used the widest zig-zag stitch and I also reduced the foot pressure just a bit due to the thickness of the fabric.  I highly recommend making some test swatches first.

 

4. Cut away the excess fabric taking care not to cut the folded edge, tie a knot in the end and voilà, it's ready to use!