Tips for choosing the right size bra

During a presentation a few years back I was asked how best to advise male customers in selecting the right size bra for their girlfriend/wife/female friend.  I was working as a Lingerie buyer for a mail order company and the phone operators were constantly being asked for help.  Apart from a spot of covert lingerie draw reconnaissance I also suggested the highly "technical" and incredible "accurate" FRUIT THEORY...

Lemon 
A cup

Apple 
B Cup

Orange 
C Cup

Grapefruit 
D Cup

Bra sizes can be broken down into two parts; firstly your body size and then the size/shape of the breast, so for example 12AA, 12A, 12B, 12C, 12D, 12DD etc.

As a general rule start by going up one body size; I'm normally a 10 so in a bra I go straight for the 12's.  Applying fruit theory I'm looking for something that would fit a...lemon; 12A perfect.

If you find the body size is a bit big but the cup is perfect, drop down a body size but up one in the cup, so for me that would be a 10B.

If you find the body size is a bit small but the cup is perfect, then go up one body size but down a cup size, so for me that would be a 14AA. 

Some important things to keep in mind...the wires should frame the breast tissue not sit on top of it, the straps should not dig in at the shoulder, the back should not be riding up and importantly when you're wearing the right size bra there will be no breast tissue bulging out either at the front or the underarm.
 
Hopefully these tips will help when selecting which sizes to take with you to the change room or if you're shopping on line at least which ones to drop into your cart.  If it all possible ask to be professionally fitted in store especially if you have a larger bust.  Don't rush this important purchase, wearing the wrong size and/or the wrong type of bra for you figure can cause all sorts of issues with posture leading to problems with the back, neck and shoulders. 

In designing sewing patterns for bras I decided to develop soft cup styles specifically for smaller body/bust sizes, mainly because I can never find anything I like.  The LITTLE 'GIRLS' TRIANGLE BRA in sizes 6-12A & 8-14B will soon be joined by the LITTLE 'GIRLS' BRALETTE and both are designed to be made using woven fabrics so perfect for Liberty prints like the one above.

My new studio space is less than two weeks away, in the meantime you can follow my gypsy studio adventures via instagram   

Embossing Seal Press

Old tools are one of my favourite collectables and I found this embossing seal press in a junk shop a couple of years ago.  The original manufacturers badge is still attached and reads, Jordon & Sons Ltd, 120 Chancery lane, London.

The feel of the embossed paper under your finger tips is irresistible so instead of just sitting on my desk I decided to give it a little vintage inspired make-over.  Now every new pattern I print will be embossed with my very own top secret seal!

Happy sewing.